Top Five Ways for Breeding Finches

Anyone that has finches for pets will eventually consider breeding their birds. The delight you get from your pets makes you want to see your birds have little ones, and watch them grow.

To begin breeding finches you need to get your birds a nest. Some people provide store-bought nests for their pets, some people construct the nests for them, and some people will provide the animals with the materials to build their own nests. Do not be upset if your birds do not like the first nest you give them, this is absolutely normal. Just remove the one they did not like and try another one. Continue to replace them until the birds accept one, and after that you will always know which nest to provide for your breeding finch.

Zebra finch breeders often provide their birds with wicker basket nests that are full of material to encourage their breeders. When these animals breed in the wild they will look for a place where they can hide completely, and this makes them feel safe. If you give them the ability to feel safe this will encourage breeding.

If your pets are not breeding you can try buying a heater from the pet supply, like they place in reptile cages; the heater will make the animals feel better and be healthier. Healthy birds are more likely to breed than sick ones.

You can try providing your animals with plenty of material to put in their nest. Sisal fiber is an excellent choice in materials as the finches breeders who do this on a regular basis will tell you.

One of the best things you can do for your pets is to make their environment as close to the natural environment they would have been in. They need to feel safe and secure, and they need to have what they consider a good food supply. This is not hard to accomplish, you can keep the feeder full for the animals, and plants make them feel like they have places to hide from danger. Buy fake plants for this purpose, or you can try providing them with cover by placing a blanket on the sides of their cage.

If you have children in your home, do not let them bump the cage a lot, or poke their fingers or other objects through the bars. If the birds are frequently disrupted by their cage being jarred around, then they will not feel safe and secure.

When you notice the male fussing with the nest, and then doing their mating song and dance, you should notice an egg in the nest in the next couple of days. The female may not begin to sit on the egg until she has laid 8 eggs. This is called a clutch of eggs, and she can only lay one per day. After they begin to sit on the eggs you will have hatching in 10 to 18 days. The parents will give the young all the care they need.

Room for Flight Equals a Happy Finch

Finches are small, metabolic dynamos. They are very active because of their need to expend all of that natural energy. Keeping your birds in a cage that is too small for activity is a death sentence to these little beauties. They must have room for flight; it directly affects their health.

If you have the budget for it, an indoor aviary that is at least forty inches high is an ideal set up for a pair of finches. If you don't have the budget for an aviary, let's talk cages.

When choosing a cage, don't go for the smallest cage you can find just because these birds are small. These birds were built for hours upon hours of continuous flight in the wild, so they need lots of room for flight in their enclosure.

For one pair of finches, their cage should be at least 28 inches long and 20 inches high. This is the minimum for two birds. Whatever you do, don't over crowd your cage because congestion is very stressful to these birds and stress will lead to health problems.

The cage must be well ventilated and free from any drafts or direct sunlight which can over heat the birds. The cage should be placed in a well lighted area that doesn't have too much activity. Place the cage at eye level against a wall.

When looking to purchase a cage for your finches, flight bird cages are a great idea. Flight bird cages allow birds to reach full flight. These types of cages are meant for multiple birds and they have several perches and feeders. They are much taller and wider than most average cages and would make a perfect home for your finches due to the large amount of space. Flight cages allow the birds more room for exercise and activity. But don't forget, you don't want to over crowd your birds.

Within the cage you need to provide separate finch feeders for food and water, grit and treat dishes and a bathing dish. You will need softwood perches of differing sizes to help keep your bird's feet healthy and to help keep their nails trim. Finches will also enjoy a nest box to sleep in at night. Paper sprinkled with grit should be placed on the bottom of the cage or you can simply use grit paper. You will also want to place a "bird protector" disk on the side of the cage. This will help to prevent mites.

Your birds with thrive with plenty of room to roam, good healthy food and a stress free environment.

Breeding Zebra Finches

Zebra Finches are very eager breeders if they are happy and well cared for. These birds will readily breed even in smaller or breeding cages. They display mating behaviors all year-long, but once you notice the male beginning to show signs of gathering behavior, your birds are ready to breed.

The breeding cage should be at least one square foot per bird. They should be provided with two nest boxes per pair of birds, that are mounted as high as possible opposite the food dish and separated from any other nest boxes if breeding more than one pair per cage. They should be provide with nesting materials like coconut fibers, soft bits of string and leaves. They will pack their nest with everything they can reach for about a week before the female begins laying eggs.

Zebra Finch clutches can be anywhere from 3 to 12 eggs at time. It will take the female a few days to lay all the eggs. Nests should be left alone after the egg laying begins and until the young begin to venture out alone. Be aware that it isn't uncommon to have a couple of eggs not hatch. Good eggs will hatch within two weeks of laying and the fledglings will begin to venture out in about three to four weeks of hatching. Expect the nest to be very busy as the eggs hatch. Zebra Finches are very good parents and will take turns sitting on the nest and feeding the young.

The breeding pair must be at least 9 months old and they can be bred as a single pair or with more breeding pairs. Be sure you have an even amount of males and females or else fights for dominance and breeding partners can break out. Proper nutrition including cuttlebone for calcium is important for the health of the breeding pair as well as the health of the clutch. 

The calcium from cuttlebone helps to prevent egg binding in the females. You will need to provide fresh sprouts every day along with soft foods such as mashed hard-boiled egg, bread soaked in milk or grated vegetables. Banding for identification should be done on day 12. The young begin leaving the nest at about 4 weeks after hatching and will be independent in 5 to 6 weeks.

In the wild Zebra Finches can live up to 5 years, in captivity they normally live from 8-10 years. If they are well cared for and are kept happy and healthy, they can live up to 12 years.

Choosing the Proper Finch Aviary Can Make All the Difference

When you embark on the journey to raise finches, you start by first purchasing a couple of the little birds and placing them in special finch cages. Later on when you have expanded your number of birds, or when you decide you are prepared to breed the birds you will want to look at finch aviaries to find the proper size and style to fit your needs, and the needs of your birds.

The finches aviary must be large enough that all the birds housed in it can stretch their wings, and fly just a little. These birds are very active, jumping, and stretching their wings often during the course of a day. If the aviary you construct for them is inadequately sized then the birds will become depressed. A depressed bird can quickly seem to become sicker, not eating, or grooming itself, much like a depressed person. So make certain that your aviary provides space to move about.

When you place the perches inside the finch bird house make sure you do so where they have to fly, or jump a little to get to the next one. Do not have their resting perches so close together that they can step off of one and onto another.

There are some basic numbers you can consider when you are getting ready to buy or build a new cage to house your pets. For every pair of birds you have, provide three to four feet of space for them to move around in. The height of the birds cages does not seem to matter as much as the room you provide each bird for their own personal use. Mainly this is because the little birds tend to fly more horizontally than they do vertically.

If you have a cage designed to be six feet in length, two foot in depth, and three feet in height, you will be able to house three to four pairs of birds in this aviary space.

When you are choosing the cage for these birds you always want to avoid buying cages that are ornate, extremely decorative, or have a convoluted design to them. Steer clear of the cages that have multiple crevices in them, or that have hard to reach places inside that will make cleaning difficult. Do not buy the really tall cylindrical cages for these birds, they will not be happy in this type of enclosure. 

You do not want cages constructed from copper, or bronze, or other metals that have a tendency to become corroded, or toxic to the birds. Make certain that the spacing between the bars is adequate to allow for the birds safety. You do not want them getting their toes entrapped between the bars. Any cage that has paint that is peeling, or decorative items that are toxic, can make your birds sick. Some woods are treated with varnishes or polishes that can be harmful to your pets.

To have birds that are happy and healthy you have to pay a little attention to the size and shape of the aviary you provide for the bird to live in.

Pet Birds - The Impact of Domestic Demand on the Natural Habitats of Exotic and Foreign Birds

Bird keeping is a very popular pass-time throughout the world. However the demand for exotic or foreign birds in the past and mankind's increasing intrusion has had a dramatic effect on wild stocks and their natural habitats. Fortunately new laws are being introduced throughout the world in an attempt to maintain the ecosystem and put back what has been taken.

Some time ago many wild birds were captured from wild sources to be kept in captivity with the intention of breeding for the pet, zoo and show bird markets. This unfortunately led to many wild bird species being brought to near extinction. Fortunately nowadays this activity is carefully monitored and policed around the globe which has gone some way to restoring wild stocks. 

Unfortunately many species are still endangered - to a critical extent in some cases - so careful policing and monitoring methods will need to be ongoing for many decades yet to come - some possibly permanently. However mankind is now beginning to notice the damage done to wild animals, native plant life and natural habitats and is constantly striving to pay back what has been taken so, with optimism, things can only get better for our wildlife, however this will undoubtedly prove to be a very long task. Only with dedication and determination will this ever be achieved.

Many countries now ban the import of domestic livestock and many others impose a strict regime with regard to the matter. This is of course an absolutely necessary precaution to help achieve the desired results. This does of course mean that many previously easily available exotic or foreign pets now have to be bred in the country to meet the demand in the market. This coupled with inflation, has ultimately had an impact on the availability and cost associated with each species; They're not as cheap as they used to be! However many exotic or foreign pet birds are readily available for the right price with the most popular breeds being the least costly.

Many people keep birds as pets and many new enthusiasts are appearing all the time so the market is by no means saturated and there is still much demand. This assures that breeding conditions are being improved continuously with new technology being incorporated to improve the chances of success. Also many private breeders are making use of the demand to help fund the cost of their bird keeping ventures. Mass breeding is still going on but fortunately new regimes are often being incorporated to improve the living conditions of birds in captivity, sometimes brought on by the influence of animal rights activity, but this is a good thing and can only help.

To summarise almost anyone with a desire to keep exotic or foreign birds for whatever reason can find many to choose from and some at little cost. Almost every pet shop in the civilised world will have a stock of pet bird related foods and equipment. Bird keeping is proving to be a desirable pass-time with a massive market to meet demand.

How Do You Build a Chicken Coop - 5 Essential Guidelines You MUST Know

1. The coops basic structure

Your chicken coop is essentially going to have two main parts. The first is the enclosed indoor shelter or henhouse. This is a place that should shelter your flock from bad weather and enclose them for the night. It will give protection from predators when they are asleep and most vulnerable. The henhouse should be big enough to provide 2 to 4 sq.ft. of space per bird.

The second part is the outdoor area or run. Think of the run as their place to hang out; to eat, drink, bath, exercise and socialize with friends.If enclosed, you should provide 10 sq. ft. of space per chicken. If you birds are kept confined most of the time, allocate as much space as you can for your birds. They will be happier and healthier. It's better to build a coop that is too big rather than one that's too small.

2. Predator-proof Fence

The entire coop structure - the henhouse and run - must be enclosed to keep your chickens in and predators out. Fencing should be no less than 4 to 6 feet high (1.2 to 1.8m) to contain your chickens. Do not use lightweight 1 inch mesh wire for fencing. Flimsy materials like that is no deterrent to predators.

Fencing should be made of medium to heavy-duty materials intended for outdoor use. Livestock fencing or poultry netting are good examples. There are some light breeds which can fly over 6 foot barriers. Keep them in by installing poultry netting over the enclosure.This also protects your flock from aerial predators like hawks or owls and other predators that can climb up and over the fence.

Be sure to bury the fence 6 to 12 inches below ground. This prevents predators from tunneling under the fence. Holes in the wire should be no larger than 1 inch. This prevents your chickens from sticking their heads out and chicks from easily slip through.

The next two features are inside the coop. They are essential if you are raising chickens for eggs, will let your hens hatch their eggs or raise chickens as pets. If you raise meat chickens or broiler these two features are not necessary.

3. Nesting Boxes

This is the spot where the hens come to lay their eggs and where you will find and gather them. You should have 1 nesting box for every 2 to 4 hens. The individual size of the nest box can range from 12x12x12 for average size hens to 16x16x16 for heavy breed hens. The nest box has to be bigger than a hen, allow headroom, and space to turn around. There should also be a "lip" in front of the boxes to prevent eggs from rolling out. They should also be covered in straw to protect the eggs.

Elevate the laying boxes off the ground to discourage chickens from scratching in them which could dirty or break eggs. Some folks create easy access to gather the eggs without disturbing the hens. Make the nest boxes along an outside wall so with a hatch to easily gather the eggs from outside the coop.

4. Roosts

Chickens like to sleep up high of the ground. They feel safer. The roost height depending on the age and health of your chickens as well as the height of your coop. You'll want the lowest roosts to be anywhere from 18 to 24 inches above the floor. Space them 18 inches apart. It is not recommended to have lots of roosts at different heights. Chickens like to perch as high as possible. This creates competition among the chickens for the highest spot.

Allow 8 inches (20 cm) of perching space for each chicken - 10 inches for the larger breeds.

Also, you want the roosts to be wide enough so the chickens can place their feet comfortably on them. Regular sized chickens require perches 2 inches across with rounded edges. No less than 1 inch across for bantams. The flat sides of 2x4s are very popular roosts.

5. Feeder & Waterer

There are variety of specially designed poultry feeders and waterers commercially available. Choose feeders and waterers that give your flock easy access while also discouraging mess and waste contamination. This prevents your birds from filling them with their poops and debris. It's also easy for you to both fill and clean them. Position the bottom of the feeder and top edge of the chicken waterers at the top height of your chicken's back.

These are the five main ingredients in your chicken coop. What you use for the coop, how you lay it all out and what materials you use it is really up to you. Like I said, you can go from buying one already assembled to just using some proven plans to... Going Wild.....

The Colorful Gouldian Finch

Talk about a beautiful rainbow! Gouldian Finches are one of the most vibrantly colored birds around. The Gouldian Finch, also known as The Lady Gouldian Finch or Rainbow Finch, is a colorful passerine bird endemic to Australia. They are found in northern Australia, their habitat being tropical savanna woodlands. Unfortunately this beautiful bird's population is declining in the wild and in 1992 they were officially classified as "Endangered in the wild".

Gouldian Finches can get up to 6 inches long, with the males being a little larger than the females. Both males and females are brightly colored with yellow, red, green and black markings. The males are more brightly colored than the females, especially in the breast area. In general males have deep purple breasts, yellow bellies, and green bodies with black, red or yellow heads. Juveniles have a different coloring; their heads and necks are grey while their backs, wings and tail feathers are an olive-green. 

Their undersides, legs and feet are a light brown. Due to breeding in captivity, there have been a wide variety of color mutations developed including the white breasted, yellow-headed, blue breasted, blue bodied, white bodied and rose breasted variations.

Gouldian Finches do very well when housed with Zebra or Society Finches. They are very social and active so they must have plenty of flight room. These birds are not hard to keep, however they can be quite difficult to acclimate to their new surroundings. They need plenty of exercise to avoid metabolic problems that can be life threatening. They can become ill if exposed to cold, even for short periods of time.

These birds are NOT the ideal finch to try to finger or shoulder train. These birds are happiest when enjoyed from a distance. They should always be bought in pairs. While not extremely difficult birds to keep, Gouldian Finches really should be purchased by experienced bird keepers.

Breeding comes naturally if the birds are kept happy and healthy by providing them with proper nutrition, a clean environment, mental stimulations (toys), social activity and plenty of exercise.

Due to their beauty and incredible color and pattern variations, these birds can be quite expensive. Since these birds are a bit more delicate than other finches, it is imperative that you purchase your birds from a breeder than you can go to with any question regarding the care of your birds and that you have an avian vet you can speak to and have exam your birds regularly.