Are You Interested In Breeding Zebra Finches?

Zebra Finches are easy to care for and that includes when they are breeding. The little birds are great pets due their quirky little personalities, and they are one of the easiest types of finches to breed. It has been said that they will even help to rear the young of other finches like rare types of Australian Grass Finches.

There are many ways the male and female are different. The males have a number of distinguishing features. Some are: orange cheek patches, stripes on the throat, a chestnut colored flank with white spots, and black bar on the breast. Females lack these features and are gray in those areas mentioned. There little beaks are generally a brighter red in males and an orange color in females. The younger male birds, Juveniles, look like females, but with a black beak. Once the Juveniles reach 90 days, the beak and adult colors are usually complete.

Spring is breeding season for the finches. They need a specific environment for successful breeding. Some will do very well as a single pair in a breeding box, while others need a large aviary with many other birds around. A compatible pair of Zebra Finches will nest in almost any environment. They are good parents and rarely have breeding related problems. Both the male and female share responsibility in raising the young. The male will weave the nest using nesting materials like grasses, feathers, or commercially prepared finch nesting material in the cage or aviary. As soon as the hen lays her eggs, it is your job to remove any excess nesting material from the cage. This prevents the male from covering up the eggs in his enthusiasm to make improvements.

The female will lay one egg every other day until the clutch is complete. The average clutch size is four to five eggs. After the eggs are laid the hen who will spend most of her time on the nest. The male will often relieve her for food and exercise breaks. Twelve to eighteen days later, the eggs will begin to hatch.

Parents will need an unlimited access to calcium, such as cuttlebone and high protein foods when chicks are in the nest.

In approximately 18 days, the chicks will feather out and start to leave the nest. By the time the chicks are about a month old they will be eating completely on their own and, thus, can be separated from their parents. The male Zebra Finch will finish feeding the chicks and can rejoin the female after the chicks are completely weaned.

Gouldian Finches Are Spectacular!

These beautiful finches are splendidly colored finches. The colors on their backs are gray, red, or orange heads, blue or green, whereas underneath the colors are purple, white, or yellow. Sometimes they almost appear to be unnatural because their colors are so vivid.

The black-headed (Poephila gouldiae), the red-headed (Poephila mirabilis) and the yellow-headed (Poephila armitiana) are three varieties that are naturally-occurring in color. These are the color varieties that are generally recognized, but there can be any number of color combinations derived from these basic colorations -- including blue and yellow-bodied mutations.

In my opinion, they are one of the most colorful birds in the world. As in many species of birds, the coloration of the male Gouldian Finch is much more brilliant than that of the female. The male also has a noticeably longer center tail feather, giving him lots to boast about. An added feature is that only the males sing, and some better than others.

They come from the northern region of the Australian tropics. Unfortunately, since the 1960's, Australia has banned the exportation of animals from the country. Again unfortunately, the they are endangered in their natural habitat. This does not mean, however, that they aren't plentiful in other areas and easy to find.

Gouldian Finches are much more difficult to care for and breed than their heartier cousins, the Zebra and the Society Finches. I certainly wouldn't recommend them for the novice bird owner who may have little or no experience with captive finches.

I have found that these finches, like many other types of finches, do not like to be petted or held. That says to me that those who would like a pet bird, one they can easily finger tame, should realize these aren't the right birds for them.

Like the rest of the finches, Gouldian Finches are social and should be kept in one or more pairs. Also, since they are easily disrupted by frequent changes in their housing environment or by movement of their cage, you should find the perfect place to put them and leave them there. The reasoning behind that is that when they undergo frequent stress, it can eventually lead to weakening in the their resistance to disease. A happy finch is a healthy finch.

These little birds are very active. Whether they are in a cage or an aviary, they need the largest flying space out of any other finch species. Even though they are between five and five and a half inches in size, they need a minimum flying space of about twenty inches.

Their cages can either be metal or wooden and the space between cage bars is never greater than one-half inch. This is to prevent injury and escape. Brass cages are not recommended because of the potential toxic qualities. However, most cages that are brass in color are not actually made of brass.

Gouldian Finches aren't the easiest birds to care for, but they are by far one of the easiest birds to love.

Feathers for Bird Nests - Fun With Swallows

Watching swallows grab feathers out of the air provides hours of off-line entertainment.

By providing the right kind of feathers in the right way, you can easily attract swallows. Every spring, swallows search for the best soft materials to improve the comfort and warmth of their nests. Soft and downy feathers, a finger-length long are the perfect size and swallows get excited when they find a good source.

Air-born feathers are best although swallows will sometimes land to pick up a feather. But they usually grab feathers off the ground while flying since these birds are not efficient hoppers or walkers. If you scatter feathers on the ground for the birds, just make sure that the area is even, free from obstructions, and has plenty of space for the birds to make their approach and exit flights Swallows are very cautious when they pick feathers off the ground in flight. Several practice approaches serve to help the bird to know if a feather grab is safe. This makes sense as they are zooming down beak-first at 20 miles an hour to pick up a feather. They are safer grabbing feathers in the air.

Here is the most fun part: launch feathers into the air from a ten-foot, small-diameter plastic pipe. Place a feather at one end and blow it into the air from the other end like a dart gun. After a few days, the swallows catch on that airborne feathers are being offered when they see the pipe raised. Time your launches so the wind is right and the swallows are nearby. With the correct wind, launching feathers by hand works, but usually the plumes drift quickly and disappointingly to the ground.

The swallow's mouths make a small snap sound when closing or attempting to close on a feather.

The amazing aerialists must learn that the best way to fly with a big feather is to carry it curved under the body, shaft-first. So feathers are often dropped mid-air to change to the best position. When this happens the feather may get seized by another swallow and a chase is on.

Barnyard fowl are a good source of feathers. If you know a farm with chickens, geese, or turkeys, have them save the feathers. Then take care of the feathers. Barnyard birds may have parasites like mites. Place future swallow nest feathers in a freezer for 48 hours, remove for a couple of days and freeze again. This kills adult parasites the first freeze, lets any remaining eggs hatch when the feathers are out of the freezer, and kills them during the second freeze.

By springtime, loaded with feathers you are ready perform a good deed for the swallows. In the meantime, enjoy watching these birds perform their flying feats of feather catching.

Wonderful Finches As Pets

Why are pet finches becoming a more popular choice amongst people of all ages and experience levels? Because they are small yet hearty, always look pleasant no matter what the variety, are quiet yet make a pleasant sound when they do sing and are fun to look after.

They are also very entertaining as they play amongst themselves. They are very content in their own groups and don't need a lot of human contact.

For these reasons they are popular with a wide variety of people. From the single person living in an apartment in the city to the family living in suburbia the finch is a great pet to have.

Finches come in varieties such as the Society Finch, the Gouldian Finch and the Zebra Finch and also a wide variety of patterns and colours. They are generally very sociable and can be kept with other finches without a problem but with other species such as Lovebirds, Parakeets or other hook bills it would be best avoided; these birds tend to be more aggressive by nature.

One of the best things about having pet finches is their ability to play amongst themselves because as sociable as they are they don't need to contact with people to be happy, they won't behave like other animals might if you can't give them attention all the time.

This is also a reason why your finches may not be great at being finger tamed, although with time and patience it might be possible.

So what about when it comes time to do something like trimming your finches nails? It is actually very simple and safe for both the owner and the finch, lay your palm on its back and wrap your fingers around the finch with your thumb and forefinger gently on either side of its head. It won't usually bite but if it does it won't usually be harmful or dangerous.

It is important to keep in mind that like most bird species your pet finches need room to move within their cage or aviary so make sure their accessories are kept to a minimum; literally one mirror, toy or branch which can be changed around at various times to give them variety and allows them the freedom to fly from perch to perch.

In the wild the finch loves to roll in damp grasses to bathe themselves so as an alternative why not put some damp grasses or dandelion leaves at the bottom of the cage or aviary for a couple of hours as a treat for your pet finches.

The finch is a favourite amongst bird enthusiasts because while they have a cheerful bird song are also a lot quieter than most other bird species, and while they are hardy and have an entertaining and unique personality they are also a lot less costly in the long run than most other species, such as many parrots and soft billed birds.

Pet finches are enjoyed for their colour, busy nature, unique personality and cheerful bird song.

Cages for Finches

As people become more and more busy it helps to have a pet that doesn't need as much interaction as some other ones, such as certain breeds of parrot. They are capable of entertaining themselves quite well, but at the same time they must be happy in your home so it is up to the owner to make sure the cages are suitable for the finches to live in.

The size of the cages is the first thing to take into consideration, each should be at least two and a half feet in length with the bars very close together, to prevent them escaping.

They are very small and active so it is essential that they have enough room to take short flights from perch to perch. Sometimes owners have a second cage for when they are cleaning the main one.

It is important that the cages for your finches are not cluttered but several accessories inside are necessary-

Two finch feeders should be available at all time, one for food and one for water, a few extra dishes placed in the cages at different times with treats or grit, a small nest box for your finches to sleep in at night, another dish put in the cages several times a week for your finches to bathe. At the bottom of the cages sprinkle grit or grit paper.

The last thing to consider is a perch for them to rest on or fly from, the size will depend on the size of the cages, and will also aid in exercising the finches feet.

Some finch experts suggest materials collected from outdoors, such as the branches of maple trees, pear, poplar or elm trees.

Perches made of cement are good because they help to keep the finches toe nails trimmed, but at the same time can be harsh on the bird's feet so it isn't a good idea to use them exclusively.

Cages also need toys, bells, plastic rings or other shiny objects to keep your finches entertained. Other toys available are beads, ladders, mirrors and swings.

It is good to have a collection of them using a few at a time and changing them often to give your finch some versatility.

A bird protector is a great way to prevent mites; it is a small disk you attach to the side of the cage. This is a good option but is literally just that, a complete option, and is not going to make much of a difference if you have it or not.

Usually the cages should be cleaned once a week. It is a very simple process; Lay brown paper bags or newspapers to size cut to size, or paper towels at the bottom of the cage. Use hot soapy water to clean the whole cage, inside and out, and also the accessories. Rinse and dry it.

When creating the inside of your cages it is necessary that the they feel comfortable, this will make it a much more enjoyable experience for both you and the finches.

Pet Birds From Australia - An Introduction to Rosellas

Of all native Australian birds used as pets the rosellas are amongst the most sought after. This is due to their wonderful variety of colouring, their size and their unique markings. Their scalloped feather markings on the back is what makes them unique in the avian world. There are several different species of rosella, all of them unique in their own way, and they all have similar requirements when used in aviculture.

Common in all rosellas is the scalloped pattern to the feathers on the back and all have distinctive cheek patches. A very colourful and medium sized parrot native to Australia and the surrounding islands. On the Australian mainland these colourful birds tend to inhabit areas of farmland, woodland, forests and suburban gardens and parks, in the coastal mountains and plains but not the outback. Specific breeds tend to inhabit a particular area. Most species of rosella live in large flocks in the wild but not all.It is commonly held that their name originates from the area of Australia in which they were first noticed by early pioneers, the Rose Hill area of Sydney.

The most common species appear to be: Western Rosella - smallest of the species with two subspecies itself and is found in south west Australia. Crimson Rosella - five subspecies and inhabiting east and south east Australia. Green Rosella - the largest species and native to Tasmania. Pale-headed Rosella - two subspecies and found in the eastern part of Australia. Eastern Rosella - three subspecies and although native to the eastern area of the country they are found in many regions including Tasmania and have been introduced to New Zealand where feral populations can be found. Northern Rosella - mainly found in the north as the name suggests but can also be seen in open savanna country and a few other areas, this one is also more likely to be found in small groups or just in pairs in the wild. All these are popular as pets.

An aviary is the best option when keeping rosellas in captivity as this ensures an environment as close to their natural habitat as possible. If an aviary is not an option then they will do OK in cages, as long as the cage is adequately large enough for their requirements. They will need to have regular exercise outside the cage however and should get the opportunity to have a fly around. These birds are not usually talkers and will mainly chirp & squawk, although they could learn a few unique sounds or the odd whistle. A single rosella will form a very strong bond with its owner.

An important warning with regards to keeping rosellas:

They are best kept alone or in pairs as they can be very aggressive towards each other if a lot are enclosed together, a strange thing about captive ones this is as they tend to live mainly in flocks in the wild. Whether kept in aviary or cage try to only have no more than two, and ensure they are of the same species subfamily. These birds will fight to the death in captivity if different sub-species are allowed access to each other, so make certain that if keeping more than one type of rosella to separate the different sub-species by housing in separate aviaries or cages. If the aviaries are connected together you must at the very least double-mesh so as these birds cannot get any physical contact. Beautiful birds yes, they do have these requirements however, but they are easily achievable.

Most bird keepers will suggest that rosellas are not to be kept in a mixed aviary with other types of birds because of their aggressive nature. This may be so but I have in the past kept a pair of Eastern Rosellas (golden-mantled rosellas) in the same mixed aviary with budgies, cockatiels, grass parakeets and kakarikis and have had no problems, the rosellas tended to keep themselves to themselves and do their own thing. It would be best to get advice from an avian professional if unsure.

To summarise there are several types of rosella available to the bird keeper, but their demand can often lead to having to pay a substantial fee in order to purchase any. Their physical appearance however is well worth the expense.

Gouldian Finch Care: 8 Important Tips

Northern Australia is the native habitat of the Gouldian Finch. The other names of the Gouldian finch are the Lady Gouldian Finch, Gould's Finch and the Rainbow Finch. Both sexes of the Gouldian family can be identified by their colors of bright yellows, tropical greens, and black. Red markings, usually on the cheeks, will also be seen. The best way to tell the difference between the female and the male is by what colour and/or patterns are on their chest. The males chest is a bright purple and the females' is a light mauve.

Gouldian finches are more difficult to breed and care for than other types of finches and below I have outlined some useful tips you should consider:

1. Gouldian finches need a lot of space to exercise and fly about. You should consider whether to buy a cage or an aviary, this depends on the number of Gouldian finches that you have. After you decide on a cage or aviary, you should then choose a permanent location to keep these birds as they do not like changes in their location.

2. Gouldian finches like humid and warm conditions. These environmental settings should not be taken lightly so do make sure you provide the right conditions before choosing where to place them permanently.

3. Gouldian finches love seeds, which are their primary food source; therefore a nice mix of quality seeds should be given to them every day. You also need to provide additional nutrients and vitamins. Grit as well as crushed egg shells should be added to their daily diet. Lettuce, watercress and spinach (greens) also are necessary for a balanced diet. In addition your finches require calcium so providing Cuttlebone is a must; especially when breeding.

4. A clean cage or aviary is essential as it keeps the birds in healthy living conditions. The cages must be cleaned and disinfected on a regular basis; usually monthly but more often if necessary. All containers in the cage or aviary should be cleaned daily and the gravel in the bottom of the cage should be replaced with clean gravel at least once a month (or more often if needed).

5. Fresh water should be available daily as stale water can attract bacteria and spread disease. Ideally you would clean the water container at the same time. Plastic containers are not ideal and should be avoided.

6. Gouldian finches are extremely sensitive about being touched and petted. Try not to handle them unless it's absolutely necessary as this stresses them out.

7. Gouldian's lay on average 4 to 6 eggs and these will hatch between 15 to 18 days after the egg has been laid. It is of the utmost importance that the breeding parents are not unnecessarily disturbed and extra food and clean water be provided each day. Try to use the hand feeding formula as well. The formula is a special diet that should be given to the parent birds. This should be done before the eggs hatch so that they get accustomed to the new diet. Once the chicks are hatched the parents will regurgitate this mix and feed the babies.

8. Never breed Gouldian finches which have a different head color. The reason being is that such a mating results in an imbalance in the sex ratio of the young. It's an interesting scientific concern that points to the mortality rates of the young which have been recorded as high as 80%. So this is why breeding Gouldian's of the same head color is recommended.

These important tips will require your additional research for a thorough understanding of the Gouldian finch's needs. Keeping finches is a satisfying and proud journey that I know you will enjoy in order to successfully care for these beautiful birds.

Parrot Toy Safety - How To Choose Safe Toys For Your Parrot Or Cockatoo

Toys are necessary for the mental health of your parrot. Without toys, a parrot or cockatoo will suffer extreme boredom which can manifest as aggression, self-mutilation or reclusive behavior. Toys are not optional. They are mandatory enrichment items that help an intelligent creature survive in our world. That said, it is important to note that they can also be a deadly hazard to their health in captivity. In the wild parrots are known to exhibit behavior that is strikingly similar to children playing with toys. They have a whole wild world of natural toys in the jungles and forests with which to play. 

They have parents, siblings and flock members to show them the safe way to enjoy their freedom; large parrots and cockatoos have a five-year juvenile dependency period in which they learn how to live. In our world, they are taken from their parents before they hatch, raised in incubators, handled by human breeders and then sold frequently to novice caretakers that have no idea that they are bringing home a wild animal. These captive intelligent creatures are like autistic children in many ways. They do not know safe from unsafe unless someone takes the time to teach them. It is up to us to teach them how to play safe, watch them to make sure that they do, and choose toys carefully to both enrich their lives and ensure that they remain unharmed.

Choosing toys using good judgment is one key to safety. Another key is vigilance. To be relatively safe a toy must be nontoxic, free of entanglements, and must not have easily swallowed small parts. As the director of a parrot and cockatoo sanctuary, I have seen many toys that appeared safe turned into dangerous weapons by a creative bird. Fortunately, keeping a vigilant eye on our flock has kept us from having deaths related to these "safe" toys. One such toy was a hanging wooden basket. This basket had nickel-plated chain so there was no danger of zinc poisoning. 

The chain attached to two sides of the wooden basket and came to a point with a small pear quick link to attach to the bars of the cage. One of our umbrella cockatoos, Snoball, broke the pear link and the basket fell. The basket wrapped around the umbrella cockatoo's neck. He panicked. Running with the basket he twisted his neck from side to side and managed to wrap his neck with the chain; he could have choked to death. He had to be subdued with a towel and then carefully extricated from the toy. Because I was there and vigilant Snoball was not injured. I no longer have hanging toys of this type in the play areas.

Buying toys for your beloved companion birds is no easy task. There are many things to consider. I will go over the dangers in detail but do not let this make you paranoid. The issues that I will discuss are real and important. Nevertheless, you will need to make the best decision that you can based on available choices. This helps to limit the dangers arising from playing with toys; keeping an eye on them during play protects against unseen danger. Just do the best that you can; that is all that anyone can do. 

I make most of the toys for our birds myself both to cut costs and to insure their safety. I buy the wood, cut it into shapes, drill it, color it and string it on nickel-plated chain using split metal rings at the top and bottom. Next, I attach string and put on beads and plastic shapes. Sometimes I put colorful cloth ribbons or other adornments. A few of my toys have been misused by the birds, too. I just do the best I can. Again, safety is a combination of both caution in purchasing toys and keeping an eye on the parrots during playtime.

The toy has not been made that a parrot or cockatoo cannot use in an unexpected way. Cecelia, an umbrella cockatoo, takes dowels and matches toys with drilled holes to them. She inserts the toy into one end and then uses them much like a magic wand. In a way they are magic. Anytime Cecelia holds a toy the other birds run away. Cecelia becomes quite aggressive when she holds a toy, especially one of her own creation, and the other birds are aware of her nature. I filmed her once picking a toy boat with a wooden handle of the floor. I did not realize at the time that she intended to use it against Murri, our Congo African Grey parrot. Murri had threatened her when she was at the top of the cage and she had climbed down right after this for the boat. She ascended the cage with it and confronted Murri. 

Murri continued to make vocal threats and actually saying, "Come on! Come on!" while raising the feathers on the back of her neck, bending down and clicking her tongue. Cecelia started swinging the boat back and forth in front of Murri. I thought that this was cute as I filmed her. All of a sudden she angled the boat right at Murri. Bang! Murri jumped back. Cecelia pushed forward and hit her with the boat again. Murri began to climb down the door of the cage and Cecelia beat her with the boat on the way down. Cecelia was using a toy as a weapon! Now who would have guessed that a cockatoo could think that far in advance and use a toy boat as a tool? Only Murri's pride seemed to be hurt. If there had been any chance of injury I would have dropped the camera but it was obvious that Cecelia only wanted to stand at the top of the cage. Never underestimate these intelligent creatures. The video is available at our YouTube page.

Let's take on the three major categories of toy safety. The first requirement is that the toy be nontoxic. One question to ask is, "Where was the toy made?" Since most of the toys available now come from China it is often difficult to know if they are nontoxic. Most of us have heard horror stories concerning the products coming from China. The label may assure us that the toy is made of safe natural materials but can we be sure?

There is no way to be one hundred percent certain that a toy is nontoxic but we do have a few tools that we can use. Checking out the brand name online is one good way to see if anyone has had problems relating to that manufacturer. Use the search feature of your web browser (Safari, Firefox, Internet Explorer, etc.) to see what you can find out. Good search techniques are actually simple. Think of the keywords you will use to search in their order of importance. One example of a set of good keywords is: "parrot treasures," toy, safety, (brand name, what the item is, and the issue at hand). I used quotation marks to tell the search engine that "parrot treasures" is a single search term: the manufacturer's name. If you find many complaints about the company then you have an answer. No complaints at least is a step in the right direction. If you find loud praise in many places then you can relax a little.

Besides the origin of the product and the company background, we need to decide if we trust the material from which the toy was made. Should we get natural untreated wood or will dyes be safe? Paints are to be avoided but some dyes are rated as safe for parrots, such as VitaCritter. Even so-called natural wood may have been treated and often there is no way to be sure on an imported product. Natural wood may also harbor mold or bacteria. If you dye your own wood with VitaCritter then you can use isopropyl alcohol as the base for the VitaCritter dye and that will kill the mold and bacteria in the wood; it will also clean up any mouse or rat feces from the lumberyard. The alcohol evaporates quickly and the dyed wood is safe in 24 to 48 hours. Some woods are unsafe for birds such as Cherry wood. If you are making your own toys be sure to check the safety of the wood that you are using. 

Some materials have a bad reputation. PVC (Polyvinyl chloride) and Vinyl toys (a form of PVC) have toxic chemicals that may leach into your bird's beak or through their pores in their feet. Yet, as far as I can tell, none of the long-time caretakers that I know has seen any evidence that vinyls cause toxicity in parrots; this potential for danger has not been known for long. The Wikipedia lists lead and other toxic metals as potentially leaching from vinyls. One Avian veterinarian advised me that he had never seen a problem arising from metal toxicity that had not been due to ingesting a piece of metal directly. Specifically, he was talking about feather destructive behavior that arises from such toxicity but this applies to other health issues as well. I watch our birds carefully when they are playing with plastic toys and look for signs that they may be ingesting pieces of them. If I have any doubts then I remove the toy from the play area.

Our next category is "free of entanglements." Anything that becomes worn or tattered might be a potential hazard either from ingestion (small parts) or from entanglements, especially rope. A frayed toy or perch might entrap the bird's foot. If the bird panics severe injury may occur. This is also true of materials such as towels, sheets, and furniture with material attached. I have seen both happen. Chloe, the umbrella cockatoo after which our sanctuary was named, chewed through the back of a chair (probably over a week or so of furtive chewing) and then wrapped the material around her neck. It looked as if she had a snake around her neck! One thing that I learned is that you must always check your birds to see if they can move. They are prey animals. When I saw Chloe I was unaware that she was trapped. She stood and looked at me as if nothing was wrong. Following my rule of checking for mobility I walked over to her and removed the small piece of material covering her back. That is when I discovered her predicament. 

Rarely will a prey animal tell you that something is wrong. One acquaintance of mine failed to follow this rule and assumed that her bird just did not want to come out and play; she thought it was nesting. Sadly, her bird died because it was unable to get food and water. It's leg had been trapped far back in the nest box. I cannot stress enough that prey animals pretend to be fine when they are in these predicaments; this is because a predator will attack a wounded or trapped prey animal. So, when you are buying toys think, "Can my bird be trapped or injured by this toy?" Try and imagine how the toy can be torn apart, wrapped around, or twisted. Looking on the Internet under "dangerous parrot toys" can help, too!

The last category is "easily ingested small parts." Buy toys of appropriate size. The small parts that make up some toys should not be small enough for your bird to swallow. Keep in mind that their powerful beaks can sometimes turn a larger toy into a smaller one. Don't buy a toy meant for a cockatiel for your macaw. If a toy is recommended for smaller birds, do not buy it for a large one. Safety is one reason for size recommendations.

In summary, a toy should be of appropriate size with no ingestible parts, free of toxins and as free as possible of potential entanglements. Parrots and cockatoos may have roughly the intelligence of a five-year-old child and the emotional development of a two-year old but they have outwitted me time and time again. We must be as vigilant as a devoted mother for her toddler and that vigilance must be maintained for many years. Many parrots and cockatoos live as long or longer than we do. If you think safety when you make or buy toys and keep an eye on them while they are playing, then you have done your best for your feathered children. Besides, watching them with an open heart can bring awe and wonder back into your life. They are amazing.

There Are Many Types of Finches Which Make Good Pets

There are many types of finches which make good pets so everyone should be able to find some of these birds that they find suitable for them. The birds come in a wide array of colors, of patterns, and of characteristics. You need to research the different finch types to find the ones that have the qualities you want in your pet.

Many people like to keep Zebra finches as pets. The Zebra finch has a stripe pattern that resembles the pattern found on a zebra. They are relatively mild-mannered birds, they prefer the company of other birds to humans, but that is a common finch trait, and they sometimes are singers. Mostly the males are vocal. These little birds can be from three to five inches long, and they are fairly easy to breed in captivity.

The Strawberry finch is often chosen by pet owners because it can live comfortably in either an indoor cage, or in an outdoor aviary. These little birds have a bright red patch on their chest that looks very much like a strawberry.

An ideal bird for the first time bird owner is the Society finch. This type of finch cannot be found living in the wild, they are an utterly domesticated species. These little creatures are never more than five inches in length, and they are relatively inexpensive. You can find them in most pet stores, and they are very easy to get to breed. They have a mottled coloring of brown and white, except some are more grey and white.

The Gouldian finch is also known as the Lady Gouldian, and they are very popular as house pets. They cost a little more than the Society finch does but their bright color combinations makes up for the additional cost. These birds are a little larger than most other species of finch. They are usually five to six inches long at maturity. The males are very colorful with black heads, their bodies are green, their breasts are purple, and their bellows are yellow. The females of this species have much duller colorings, and they are usually smaller than the males. This type of finch likes to move around a lot, so if you want to raise them you will need a larger cage for them to enjoy.

The Spice Finch comes from Asia and is a very easy to keep little bird. They are sometimes called the Nutmeg finch, and even though they are less than five inches when mature they require a larger cage for their activities. They are aptly named because they are cinnamon colored little creatures.

You will find many species of these birds to keep as pets, the Orange finch is quite popular for its' coloring. There is a vampire finch but they are rarely kept as pets, you will have to look at the birds available in your area, because there are many types of finches which make good pets.

Finches As Pets Are a Great Choice

If you have been considering getting a pet, but you have not yet decided what type of animal you want yet, then here are some things to consider before you purchase your new companion.

You need to think about your lifestyle in order to choose a pet you will have time to take proper care of. A dog is a high maintenance pet. They must be exercised daily, they must be trained to not use your carpet as a bathroom area, they chew on everything around them until they are close to two years of age, and they require a lot of your attention. They will need several visits to the vet the first year, and at least two visits per year after that. They will need bathing, and flea medication, their nails need trimmed, and depending on the breed they may need monthly visits to a grooming salon.

Cats are a better choice for the busier person, since you do not have to walk them, but you do have to give them a litter box in your house to use. They will scratch in the litter and scatter it about the room it is in, and their litter boxes can cause your entire house to smell awful. Everyone that visits will immediately know you own a cat. 

They also require frequent visits to the vet, as well as treatments for fleas, and for hair balls. You have to worry about them getting overweight, and if you do not have them spayed or neutered you will have a whole host of problems to deal with every sixty days.

Tropical fish can be expensive to buy and upkeep. The equipment you need to start your fish tanks out is expensive, and you must be diligent in monitoring the water temperature, and the ph levels to keep the fish happy, and healthy. The fish do not need frequent trips to the vet, nor do they need constant attention, or for you to walk them. Fish need you to maintain a properly clean environment, which involves you taking the fish out of the tank and cleaning the tank on regular intervals. You must have aerators to supply oxygen to the water, and keep the filters clean in those also.

Parrots and snakes, turtles and lizards, all have unique problems with their upkeep. If you want to get a low maintenance, easy to care for pet you should consider the finches birds.

Finches for pets are a great idea for anyone who already has a busy lifestyle. Finches pets are fairly inexpensive to buy, they require only a rather small inexpensive cage, food, and water. They do not need to be walked, they are fairly quiet to have around, and they do not mope or pout if you cannot pay them enough attention.

When you get one of these little feathery creatures they keep their own selves groomed, they are active and entertaining to watch, and what noises they make are sweet music to your ears.

An Indoor or Outdoor Finch Aviary?

An aviary is commonly known as a bird house and because of its larger size it gives your finches a lot more freedom to do what they love and what comes naturally which is to fly. So bearing that in mind, having an aviary is highly recommended especially if owners already have or intend to keep more than two finches.

The beauty of having an aviary is that it can be situated either indoors or outdoors plus an aviary requires the same basic facilities of a smaller cage but just on a slightly larger scale. There are many aviaries available to suit your needs (and the needs of your finches) but the practical requirements for having an indoor or outdoor aviary are essentially the same. There are a few differences to think about and special considerations to make depending on your choice of an indoor or outdoor aviary setup.

Many aviaries are available that will suit every owner's needs and these will come in various sizes. If you are skilled enough and plan to build your own aviary you certainly can and will save a lot of money. Either way, you should consider the costs of both types of aviaries and also the permanent space where the finches will be kept before making any decisions. The aviaries can be as decorative and pleasurable according to your imagination however don't forget to think about what finches need too!

All aviaries should only be made out of non-toxic wood or a metal frame which should consist of a fine wire mesh. The outdoor aviary's floor should preferably be made from concrete, as it is easy to maintain and keep clean. With your outdoor aviary you should ensure a slight slope to the floor as this provides better drainage and easy cleaning. Having an unclean aviary is not conducive to your birds' health, and the last thing you need is unnecessary vet bills.

Most finches love to have a bath so putting a bird-bath in the aviary will also help the birds to be healthier and it keeps them happier in the process. One thing to remember which is extremely important is to clean the bath out regularly - this will prevent the growth of bacteria and other nasties that will harm your birds. Both aviary options should also have perches which can be in mixed sizes. Bowls for holding water and seeds should be made of stainless steel and not plastic. Since plastic containers often allow the build up of bacteria, it is better to use stainless steel for this purpose instead.

A finch aviary whether indoors or outdoors will also help the birds to breed more successfully. Having an outdoor aviary allows the finches to feel like they are in their natural habitat. However when placing an outdoor aviary, take into consideration the finches will need some shade and also proper protection from vermin and predators. Indoors, the reverse applies to the light versus shade situation where you should provide appropriate and adequate lighting for day and night. You can also consider the aviary a little safer than an outdoor one and utilize different materials for the mesh.

An indoor aviary should not be overcrowded with perches or toys as this obviously restricts the finches flying space. It's important to ensure that an indoor aviary is well ventilated and kept in a reasonable amount of sunlight or artificial lighting.

Whether you choose an outdoor or indoor finch aviary, both have advantages and disadvantages depending on your wants and needs. So now that you have read a small introductory piece of a much bigger picture, I'm sure you can go ahead with confidence and progressively meet all of the requirements and needs of your finches in order to decide whether to have an indoor or outdoor aviary.

An Aviary For Your Finches

Often people make the mistake of thinking that finches are very small birds, therefore they will do just fine in very small cages. This couldn't be further from the truth. While most finch birds are rather small, measuring from 4" to 6", they still need room to roam.

Small in stature, these birds are built for hours upon hours of continuous flight. This is one of the reasons they are such active little birds, because they need to make use of all that energy. Because of their natural need for activity, it is imperative that their living area provides them with enough room to reach full flight when moving from perch to perch.

In an ideal world, and outdoor aviary would be the perfect solution to providing your birds with plenty of space to safely roam. Outdoor aviaries can be a bit expensive, but you can cut the cost if you should decide to build the aviary yourself.

There are many books on building your own outdoor aviary, but here is a quick guide on what you will need.

To start you will need the following equipment: wire snips, pliers, a hammer, a miter say, a drill, a heavy-duty staple gun and staples, sandpaper, bendable wire, 100 square feet of small wire mesh screening, slim carpentry screws or fasteners, 12 one-inch by one-inch by four-foot lengths of lumber and 8 one-inch by one-inch by three-foot lengths of lumber.

You will need to sand all the lumber so there are no rough edges or splinters in the wood that might injure you or your birds. Then use the miter saw to square all the corners of the lumber. Assemble 2 four-foot high by four-foot wide frames using your screws or fasteners. Stretch, cut and staple the wire mesh over them. These two frames make up the front and back walls of the aviary.

Assemble 4 four-foot high by three-foot wide frames with your screws then stretch, cut and staple the wire mesh over them like you did earlier. Here you are creating the top, bottom and sides of your aviary.

Screw all six of the screened frames together into a four-foot high by three-foot wide by four-foot long box shape. From the left side of the aviary, cut open three sides of a small door in the wire mesh about 12 inches wide and 12 inches high, bending the screen on the left margin of the door. Cut a descent length of wire to loop in the door to use as a latch.

Now this is just a very basic aviary, there are much more spacious and beautiful models you can build, but this will get you started. If you don't have room for this type of aviary, you can buy smaller, indoor aviaries at bird supply stores and some pet shops.

Which ever you choose, your birds will have plenty of room to fly around and active finches are happy finches.

Everything About Finch Health You Must Know

If you have recently decided to raise zebra finches as pets then you may be interested in knowing about zebra finch diseases, and what signs you should be on the lookout for in your birds. Finch health can sometimes be hard to determine because birds will naturally try to hide any signs of weakness, and to them a finch illness would be a sign of weakness.

The first thing you need to know about the health of these birds, and how to spot illness in them, is that you must observe your birds. Watch your birds and learn their behavior patterns, their feeding patterns, how much water they take in every day, and how they interact with the other animals. Often the first sign of illness in a cage is when a bird starts to display abnormal behavior patterns, like they have a change in diet, or a change in how they behave.

The second thing you really need to know is that you need to get a second cage to use as a hospital cage. When one of your pets becomes ill you will want to quarantine it from the others until it is better. This will slow the spreading of disease, and it will keep the healthier pets from picking on the sick one.

If you notice that your pet seems to be sitting more still than normal, or appears that is moping you are probably observing a sick animal. Normal behavior for these animals is to be moving unless they are sleeping, sick ones sit still, and will often keep their eyes about half-shut even when they are awake.

Pay attention to the air holes located on the beak, frequently these will look wet, or even dirty when the animal is feeling under the weather. Place any bird that displays any symptoms of being ill into the hospital cage until you determine what is wrong.

Once the sick creature has been secluded watch for other symptoms to determine if this is something you can handle, or if you need to take it to the vet. If your patient seems to make faint clicking noises when it breathes you are more than likely dealing with air-sac mites. Pick your animal up and hold it close to your ears and listen for the sounds of the clicking, or for gasping when it tries to breathe. This is a serious disease and you have to treat it quickly with medication called Iverlux. If the animal is severely infected the treatment will not be beneficial, but when the condition is caught early you may be able to save the creature.

This is why it is so important to know the basic behavior patterns of your individual pets, and to remove them as soon as they display behaviors that appear unusual. Your observance and quick reactions to potential illness in the cage will be the very best tool you have against finch diseases in your cage.

Keeping Finches Happy Is Easy

If you want to get a pet that is easy to care for, makes very little mess, does not take up much room, and is very easy to keep happy, you want to get a finch. Keeping finches happy is easy to do.

When people get their first pair of these little feathered charmers they are scared that they will do something wrong in their attempt to care for finches. Actually keeping finches is easier than keeping a dog, or a cat.

When you have one of these birds for a pet you provide it with a cage that is at least 30" long. The cage does not need to be really high, as finches fly more sideways than they do up. Inside that cage make certain you have a place for plenty of fresh drinking water, and a food dish. Place a perch, or two inside the cage spaced far enough apart that the birds have to maneuver a little to change from one perch to the other. Do not situate them where they just step off one and step onto the other one.

Go to the store and pick up finch supplies for your new pet. Find out what finches like to eat, and make sure you have some on hand. Then you are ready to pick out your birds. Yes I did say birds, not bird. You see, finches are very social beings and if you only have one the little creature would quickly become depressed, and would not be happy. To ensure that your pet is happy, and healthy, you must provide it with a friend.

You do not necessarily have to have a male and female pair. You do not even have to have both finches be of the same variety. You simply need to give them a friend to hang around with. If you do decide that you want two different varieties of birds to reside in the same cage, make sure that the two you pick have close to the same characteristics. If you get one type that is easygoing, and you get one type that is slightly more dominant. Then the easygoing bird will soon become an unhappy bird. To make sure you have happy pets do a little research on which types of finches can live in harmony in the same cage.

If you do decide you want a male and a female these little fellows are fairly easy to keep satisfied enough that they breed in captivity.

Your new pets are not really keen on being handled, so you will not want to pick them up a lot. Basically if they have food, water, a friend, and a place they can stretch their wings a little, then you will have pets that are content in their surroundings.

All you will need to do is sit back and let them entertain you with the way they interact with each other. You can share little bits of fresh veggies with them every now and then, to give them a special treat.

Top Five Ways for Breeding Finches

Anyone that has finches for pets will eventually consider breeding their birds. The delight you get from your pets makes you want to see your birds have little ones, and watch them grow.

To begin breeding finches you need to get your birds a nest. Some people provide store-bought nests for their pets, some people construct the nests for them, and some people will provide the animals with the materials to build their own nests. Do not be upset if your birds do not like the first nest you give them, this is absolutely normal. Just remove the one they did not like and try another one. Continue to replace them until the birds accept one, and after that you will always know which nest to provide for your breeding finch.

Zebra finch breeders often provide their birds with wicker basket nests that are full of material to encourage their breeders. When these animals breed in the wild they will look for a place where they can hide completely, and this makes them feel safe. If you give them the ability to feel safe this will encourage breeding.

If your pets are not breeding you can try buying a heater from the pet supply, like they place in reptile cages; the heater will make the animals feel better and be healthier. Healthy birds are more likely to breed than sick ones.

You can try providing your animals with plenty of material to put in their nest. Sisal fiber is an excellent choice in materials as the finches breeders who do this on a regular basis will tell you.

One of the best things you can do for your pets is to make their environment as close to the natural environment they would have been in. They need to feel safe and secure, and they need to have what they consider a good food supply. This is not hard to accomplish, you can keep the feeder full for the animals, and plants make them feel like they have places to hide from danger. Buy fake plants for this purpose, or you can try providing them with cover by placing a blanket on the sides of their cage.

If you have children in your home, do not let them bump the cage a lot, or poke their fingers or other objects through the bars. If the birds are frequently disrupted by their cage being jarred around, then they will not feel safe and secure.

When you notice the male fussing with the nest, and then doing their mating song and dance, you should notice an egg in the nest in the next couple of days. The female may not begin to sit on the egg until she has laid 8 eggs. This is called a clutch of eggs, and she can only lay one per day. After they begin to sit on the eggs you will have hatching in 10 to 18 days. The parents will give the young all the care they need.

Room for Flight Equals a Happy Finch

Finches are small, metabolic dynamos. They are very active because of their need to expend all of that natural energy. Keeping your birds in a cage that is too small for activity is a death sentence to these little beauties. They must have room for flight; it directly affects their health.

If you have the budget for it, an indoor aviary that is at least forty inches high is an ideal set up for a pair of finches. If you don't have the budget for an aviary, let's talk cages.

When choosing a cage, don't go for the smallest cage you can find just because these birds are small. These birds were built for hours upon hours of continuous flight in the wild, so they need lots of room for flight in their enclosure.

For one pair of finches, their cage should be at least 28 inches long and 20 inches high. This is the minimum for two birds. Whatever you do, don't over crowd your cage because congestion is very stressful to these birds and stress will lead to health problems.

The cage must be well ventilated and free from any drafts or direct sunlight which can over heat the birds. The cage should be placed in a well lighted area that doesn't have too much activity. Place the cage at eye level against a wall.

When looking to purchase a cage for your finches, flight bird cages are a great idea. Flight bird cages allow birds to reach full flight. These types of cages are meant for multiple birds and they have several perches and feeders. They are much taller and wider than most average cages and would make a perfect home for your finches due to the large amount of space. Flight cages allow the birds more room for exercise and activity. But don't forget, you don't want to over crowd your birds.

Within the cage you need to provide separate finch feeders for food and water, grit and treat dishes and a bathing dish. You will need softwood perches of differing sizes to help keep your bird's feet healthy and to help keep their nails trim. Finches will also enjoy a nest box to sleep in at night. Paper sprinkled with grit should be placed on the bottom of the cage or you can simply use grit paper. You will also want to place a "bird protector" disk on the side of the cage. This will help to prevent mites.

Your birds with thrive with plenty of room to roam, good healthy food and a stress free environment.

Breeding Zebra Finches

Zebra Finches are very eager breeders if they are happy and well cared for. These birds will readily breed even in smaller or breeding cages. They display mating behaviors all year-long, but once you notice the male beginning to show signs of gathering behavior, your birds are ready to breed.

The breeding cage should be at least one square foot per bird. They should be provided with two nest boxes per pair of birds, that are mounted as high as possible opposite the food dish and separated from any other nest boxes if breeding more than one pair per cage. They should be provide with nesting materials like coconut fibers, soft bits of string and leaves. They will pack their nest with everything they can reach for about a week before the female begins laying eggs.

Zebra Finch clutches can be anywhere from 3 to 12 eggs at time. It will take the female a few days to lay all the eggs. Nests should be left alone after the egg laying begins and until the young begin to venture out alone. Be aware that it isn't uncommon to have a couple of eggs not hatch. Good eggs will hatch within two weeks of laying and the fledglings will begin to venture out in about three to four weeks of hatching. Expect the nest to be very busy as the eggs hatch. Zebra Finches are very good parents and will take turns sitting on the nest and feeding the young.

The breeding pair must be at least 9 months old and they can be bred as a single pair or with more breeding pairs. Be sure you have an even amount of males and females or else fights for dominance and breeding partners can break out. Proper nutrition including cuttlebone for calcium is important for the health of the breeding pair as well as the health of the clutch. 

The calcium from cuttlebone helps to prevent egg binding in the females. You will need to provide fresh sprouts every day along with soft foods such as mashed hard-boiled egg, bread soaked in milk or grated vegetables. Banding for identification should be done on day 12. The young begin leaving the nest at about 4 weeks after hatching and will be independent in 5 to 6 weeks.

In the wild Zebra Finches can live up to 5 years, in captivity they normally live from 8-10 years. If they are well cared for and are kept happy and healthy, they can live up to 12 years.

Choosing the Proper Finch Aviary Can Make All the Difference

When you embark on the journey to raise finches, you start by first purchasing a couple of the little birds and placing them in special finch cages. Later on when you have expanded your number of birds, or when you decide you are prepared to breed the birds you will want to look at finch aviaries to find the proper size and style to fit your needs, and the needs of your birds.

The finches aviary must be large enough that all the birds housed in it can stretch their wings, and fly just a little. These birds are very active, jumping, and stretching their wings often during the course of a day. If the aviary you construct for them is inadequately sized then the birds will become depressed. A depressed bird can quickly seem to become sicker, not eating, or grooming itself, much like a depressed person. So make certain that your aviary provides space to move about.

When you place the perches inside the finch bird house make sure you do so where they have to fly, or jump a little to get to the next one. Do not have their resting perches so close together that they can step off of one and onto another.

There are some basic numbers you can consider when you are getting ready to buy or build a new cage to house your pets. For every pair of birds you have, provide three to four feet of space for them to move around in. The height of the birds cages does not seem to matter as much as the room you provide each bird for their own personal use. Mainly this is because the little birds tend to fly more horizontally than they do vertically.

If you have a cage designed to be six feet in length, two foot in depth, and three feet in height, you will be able to house three to four pairs of birds in this aviary space.

When you are choosing the cage for these birds you always want to avoid buying cages that are ornate, extremely decorative, or have a convoluted design to them. Steer clear of the cages that have multiple crevices in them, or that have hard to reach places inside that will make cleaning difficult. Do not buy the really tall cylindrical cages for these birds, they will not be happy in this type of enclosure. 

You do not want cages constructed from copper, or bronze, or other metals that have a tendency to become corroded, or toxic to the birds. Make certain that the spacing between the bars is adequate to allow for the birds safety. You do not want them getting their toes entrapped between the bars. Any cage that has paint that is peeling, or decorative items that are toxic, can make your birds sick. Some woods are treated with varnishes or polishes that can be harmful to your pets.

To have birds that are happy and healthy you have to pay a little attention to the size and shape of the aviary you provide for the bird to live in.