Finches Are Wonderful Pets

Why do people love having finches as pets? What makes them unique? A few of the reasons could be how beautiful they are to look at and how entertaining they are to watch. They are also very easy to keep and look after, which is a great benefit. It is however important to know how.

Nowadays many of us have busy lives, we generally don't want a pet that takes up hours of our time; time we may not have. That's why these happy energetic little birds are perfect because as long as they have enough food and water they will be happy and content to fly around their cage entertaining themselves.

For those who don't have a busy life and have the time having finches as pets is also great because of their energy and personality traits. Some breeds of finches are quieter than others but when they do sing it's always pleasant to listen to.

Finches are generally independent and don't always bond with people, although it is possible with some species overtime. The benefit of this is that they won't feel lonely if left for certain periods of time. This is one of the reasons for their popularity, especially amongst people who want to own a pet that will be fine without them always being there.

The main thing about having finches as pets is maintaining their living environment, whether it is a cage or aviary. Changing their water and leaving enough food for them, changing any accessories to different places in the cage to give them variety, and cleaning out the bottom of the cage to keep their home healthy and keep them happy.

As long as you remember the main things; food, water, cage cleaning, and also trimming your finches nails, you shouldn't have too any problems. Other things can be learned along the way, there are resources in the form of ebooks, web searches and pet stores.

Although finches are independent pets they are very sociable within their own groups so it would be a good idea to get two or more. A male and female will probably breed more frequently so it is recommended that you keep only females. Some experts on finches recommend groups of six or more.

Finches come in a wide variety; such as the Zebra Finch, the Gouldian Finch and the Society, or Bengalese, Finch. They are all beautiful to look at and energetic with their own personalities, yet some species share certain common behaviour traits.

For example, some finches are more aggressive while others are more timid, some are louder while others are quieter. In the end it is up to you to find a species of finch that suits your personality and will make you happy.

Owning finches as pets will be one of the most rewarding experiences you ever have. They are fun, energetic, hardy, independent, and beautiful to look at. They come in a wide range of colours and patterns, and are a wonderful addition to any bird lover's household.

Feathers for Bird Nests - Fun With Swallows

Watching swallows grab feathers out of the air provides hours of off-line entertainment.

By providing the right kind of feathers in the right way, you can easily attract swallows. Every spring, swallows search for the best soft materials to improve the comfort and warmth of their nests. Soft and downy feathers, a finger-length long are the perfect size and swallows get excited when they find a good source.

Air-born feathers are best although swallows will sometimes land to pick up a feather. But they usually grab feathers off the ground while flying since these birds are not efficient hoppers or walkers. If you scatter feathers on the ground for the birds, just make sure that the area is even, free from obstructions, and has plenty of space for the birds to make their approach and exit flights Swallows are very cautious when they pick feathers off the ground in flight. Several practice approaches serve to help the bird to know if a feather grab is safe. This makes sense as they are zooming down beak-first at 20 miles an hour to pick up a feather. They are safer grabbing feathers in the air.

Here is the most fun part: launch feathers into the air from a ten-foot, small-diameter plastic pipe. Place a feather at one end and blow it into the air from the other end like a dart gun. After a few days, the swallows catch on that airborne feathers are being offered when they see the pipe raised. Time your launches so the wind is right and the swallows are nearby. With the correct wind, launching feathers by hand works, but usually the plumes drift quickly and disappointingly to the ground.

The swallow's mouths make a small snap sound when closing or attempting to close on a feather.

The amazing aerialists must learn that the best way to fly with a big feather is to carry it curved under the body, shaft-first. So feathers are often dropped mid-air to change to the best position. When this happens the feather may get seized by another swallow and a chase is on.

Barnyard fowl are a good source of feathers. If you know a farm with chickens, geese, or turkeys, have them save the feathers. Then take care of the feathers. Barnyard birds may have parasites like mites. Place future swallow nest feathers in a freezer for 48 hours, remove for a couple of days and freeze again. This kills adult parasites the first freeze, lets any remaining eggs hatch when the feathers are out of the freezer, and kills them during the second freeze.

By springtime, loaded with feathers you are ready perform a good deed for the swallows. In the meantime, enjoy watching these birds perform their flying feats of feather catching.

Pet Birds From Australia - An Introduction to Rosellas

Of all native Australian birds used as pets the rosellas are amongst the most sought after. This is due to their wonderful variety of colouring, their size and their unique markings. Their scalloped feather markings on the back is what makes them unique in the avian world. There are several different species of rosella, all of them unique in their own way, and they all have similar requirements when used in aviculture.

Common in all rosellas is the scalloped pattern to the feathers on the back and all have distinctive cheek patches. A very colourful and medium sized parrot native to Australia and the surrounding islands. On the Australian mainland these colourful birds tend to inhabit areas of farmland, woodland, forests and suburban gardens and parks, in the coastal mountains and plains but not the outback. Specific breeds tend to inhabit a particular area. Most species of rosella live in large flocks in the wild but not all.It is commonly held that their name originates from the area of Australia in which they were first noticed by early pioneers, the Rose Hill area of Sydney.

The most common species appear to be: Western Rosella - smallest of the species with two subspecies itself and is found in south west Australia. Crimson Rosella - five subspecies and inhabiting east and south east Australia. Green Rosella - the largest species and native to Tasmania. Pale-headed Rosella - two subspecies and found in the eastern part of Australia. Eastern Rosella - three subspecies and although native to the eastern area of the country they are found in many regions including Tasmania and have been introduced to New Zealand where feral populations can be found. Northern Rosella - mainly found in the north as the name suggests but can also be seen in open savanna country and a few other areas, this one is also more likely to be found in small groups or just in pairs in the wild. All these are popular as pets.

An aviary is the best option when keeping rosellas in captivity as this ensures an environment as close to their natural habitat as possible. If an aviary is not an option then they will do OK in cages, as long as the cage is adequately large enough for their requirements. They will need to have regular exercise outside the cage however and should get the opportunity to have a fly around. These birds are not usually talkers and will mainly chirp & squawk, although they could learn a few unique sounds or the odd whistle. A single rosella will form a very strong bond with its owner.

An important warning with regards to keeping rosellas:

They are best kept alone or in pairs as they can be very aggressive towards each other if a lot are enclosed together, a strange thing about captive ones this is as they tend to live mainly in flocks in the wild. Whether kept in aviary or cage try to only have no more than two, and ensure they are of the same species subfamily. These birds will fight to the death in captivity if different sub-species are allowed access to each other, so make certain that if keeping more than one type of rosella to separate the different sub-species by housing in separate aviaries or cages. If the aviaries are connected together you must at the very least double-mesh so as these birds cannot get any physical contact. Beautiful birds yes, they do have these requirements however, but they are easily achievable.

Most bird keepers will suggest that rosellas are not to be kept in a mixed aviary with other types of birds because of their aggressive nature. This may be so but I have in the past kept a pair of Eastern Rosellas (golden-mantled rosellas) in the same mixed aviary with budgies, cockatiels, grass parakeets and kakarikis and have had no problems, the rosellas tended to keep themselves to themselves and do their own thing. It would be best to get advice from an avian professional if unsure.

To summarise there are several types of rosella available to the bird keeper, but their demand can often lead to having to pay a substantial fee in order to purchase any. Their physical appearance however is well worth the expense.

Parrot Toy Safety - How To Choose Safe Toys For Your Parrot Or Cockatoo

Toys are necessary for the mental health of your parrot. Without toys, a parrot or cockatoo will suffer extreme boredom which can manifest as aggression, self-mutilation or reclusive behavior. Toys are not optional. They are mandatory enrichment items that help an intelligent creature survive in our world. That said, it is important to note that they can also be a deadly hazard to their health in captivity. In the wild parrots are known to exhibit behavior that is strikingly similar to children playing with toys. They have a whole wild world of natural toys in the jungles and forests with which to play. 

They have parents, siblings and flock members to show them the safe way to enjoy their freedom; large parrots and cockatoos have a five-year juvenile dependency period in which they learn how to live. In our world, they are taken from their parents before they hatch, raised in incubators, handled by human breeders and then sold frequently to novice caretakers that have no idea that they are bringing home a wild animal. These captive intelligent creatures are like autistic children in many ways. They do not know safe from unsafe unless someone takes the time to teach them. It is up to us to teach them how to play safe, watch them to make sure that they do, and choose toys carefully to both enrich their lives and ensure that they remain unharmed.

Choosing toys using good judgment is one key to safety. Another key is vigilance. To be relatively safe a toy must be nontoxic, free of entanglements, and must not have easily swallowed small parts. As the director of a parrot and cockatoo sanctuary, I have seen many toys that appeared safe turned into dangerous weapons by a creative bird. Fortunately, keeping a vigilant eye on our flock has kept us from having deaths related to these "safe" toys. One such toy was a hanging wooden basket. This basket had nickel-plated chain so there was no danger of zinc poisoning. 

The chain attached to two sides of the wooden basket and came to a point with a small pear quick link to attach to the bars of the cage. One of our umbrella cockatoos, Snoball, broke the pear link and the basket fell. The basket wrapped around the umbrella cockatoo's neck. He panicked. Running with the basket he twisted his neck from side to side and managed to wrap his neck with the chain; he could have choked to death. He had to be subdued with a towel and then carefully extricated from the toy. Because I was there and vigilant Snoball was not injured. I no longer have hanging toys of this type in the play areas.

Buying toys for your beloved companion birds is no easy task. There are many things to consider. I will go over the dangers in detail but do not let this make you paranoid. The issues that I will discuss are real and important. Nevertheless, you will need to make the best decision that you can based on available choices. This helps to limit the dangers arising from playing with toys; keeping an eye on them during play protects against unseen danger. Just do the best that you can; that is all that anyone can do. 

I make most of the toys for our birds myself both to cut costs and to insure their safety. I buy the wood, cut it into shapes, drill it, color it and string it on nickel-plated chain using split metal rings at the top and bottom. Next, I attach string and put on beads and plastic shapes. Sometimes I put colorful cloth ribbons or other adornments. A few of my toys have been misused by the birds, too. I just do the best I can. Again, safety is a combination of both caution in purchasing toys and keeping an eye on the parrots during playtime.

The toy has not been made that a parrot or cockatoo cannot use in an unexpected way. Cecelia, an umbrella cockatoo, takes dowels and matches toys with drilled holes to them. She inserts the toy into one end and then uses them much like a magic wand. In a way they are magic. Anytime Cecelia holds a toy the other birds run away. Cecelia becomes quite aggressive when she holds a toy, especially one of her own creation, and the other birds are aware of her nature. I filmed her once picking a toy boat with a wooden handle of the floor. I did not realize at the time that she intended to use it against Murri, our Congo African Grey parrot. Murri had threatened her when she was at the top of the cage and she had climbed down right after this for the boat. She ascended the cage with it and confronted Murri. 

Murri continued to make vocal threats and actually saying, "Come on! Come on!" while raising the feathers on the back of her neck, bending down and clicking her tongue. Cecelia started swinging the boat back and forth in front of Murri. I thought that this was cute as I filmed her. All of a sudden she angled the boat right at Murri. Bang! Murri jumped back. Cecelia pushed forward and hit her with the boat again. Murri began to climb down the door of the cage and Cecelia beat her with the boat on the way down. Cecelia was using a toy as a weapon! Now who would have guessed that a cockatoo could think that far in advance and use a toy boat as a tool? Only Murri's pride seemed to be hurt. If there had been any chance of injury I would have dropped the camera but it was obvious that Cecelia only wanted to stand at the top of the cage. Never underestimate these intelligent creatures. The video is available at our YouTube page.

Let's take on the three major categories of toy safety. The first requirement is that the toy be nontoxic. One question to ask is, "Where was the toy made?" Since most of the toys available now come from China it is often difficult to know if they are nontoxic. Most of us have heard horror stories concerning the products coming from China. The label may assure us that the toy is made of safe natural materials but can we be sure?

There is no way to be one hundred percent certain that a toy is nontoxic but we do have a few tools that we can use. Checking out the brand name online is one good way to see if anyone has had problems relating to that manufacturer. Use the search feature of your web browser (Safari, Firefox, Internet Explorer, etc.) to see what you can find out. Good search techniques are actually simple. Think of the keywords you will use to search in their order of importance. One example of a set of good keywords is: "parrot treasures," toy, safety, (brand name, what the item is, and the issue at hand). I used quotation marks to tell the search engine that "parrot treasures" is a single search term: the manufacturer's name. If you find many complaints about the company then you have an answer. No complaints at least is a step in the right direction. If you find loud praise in many places then you can relax a little.

Besides the origin of the product and the company background, we need to decide if we trust the material from which the toy was made. Should we get natural untreated wood or will dyes be safe? Paints are to be avoided but some dyes are rated as safe for parrots, such as VitaCritter. Even so-called natural wood may have been treated and often there is no way to be sure on an imported product. Natural wood may also harbor mold or bacteria. If you dye your own wood with VitaCritter then you can use isopropyl alcohol as the base for the VitaCritter dye and that will kill the mold and bacteria in the wood; it will also clean up any mouse or rat feces from the lumberyard. The alcohol evaporates quickly and the dyed wood is safe in 24 to 48 hours. Some woods are unsafe for birds such as Cherry wood. If you are making your own toys be sure to check the safety of the wood that you are using. 

Some materials have a bad reputation. PVC (Polyvinyl chloride) and Vinyl toys (a form of PVC) have toxic chemicals that may leach into your bird's beak or through their pores in their feet. Yet, as far as I can tell, none of the long-time caretakers that I know has seen any evidence that vinyls cause toxicity in parrots; this potential for danger has not been known for long. The Wikipedia lists lead and other toxic metals as potentially leaching from vinyls. One Avian veterinarian advised me that he had never seen a problem arising from metal toxicity that had not been due to ingesting a piece of metal directly. Specifically, he was talking about feather destructive behavior that arises from such toxicity but this applies to other health issues as well. I watch our birds carefully when they are playing with plastic toys and look for signs that they may be ingesting pieces of them. If I have any doubts then I remove the toy from the play area.

Our next category is "free of entanglements." Anything that becomes worn or tattered might be a potential hazard either from ingestion (small parts) or from entanglements, especially rope. A frayed toy or perch might entrap the bird's foot. If the bird panics severe injury may occur. This is also true of materials such as towels, sheets, and furniture with material attached. I have seen both happen. Chloe, the umbrella cockatoo after which our sanctuary was named, chewed through the back of a chair (probably over a week or so of furtive chewing) and then wrapped the material around her neck. It looked as if she had a snake around her neck! One thing that I learned is that you must always check your birds to see if they can move. They are prey animals. When I saw Chloe I was unaware that she was trapped. She stood and looked at me as if nothing was wrong. Following my rule of checking for mobility I walked over to her and removed the small piece of material covering her back. That is when I discovered her predicament. 

Rarely will a prey animal tell you that something is wrong. One acquaintance of mine failed to follow this rule and assumed that her bird just did not want to come out and play; she thought it was nesting. Sadly, her bird died because it was unable to get food and water. It's leg had been trapped far back in the nest box. I cannot stress enough that prey animals pretend to be fine when they are in these predicaments; this is because a predator will attack a wounded or trapped prey animal. So, when you are buying toys think, "Can my bird be trapped or injured by this toy?" Try and imagine how the toy can be torn apart, wrapped around, or twisted. Looking on the Internet under "dangerous parrot toys" can help, too!

The last category is "easily ingested small parts." Buy toys of appropriate size. The small parts that make up some toys should not be small enough for your bird to swallow. Keep in mind that their powerful beaks can sometimes turn a larger toy into a smaller one. Don't buy a toy meant for a cockatiel for your macaw. If a toy is recommended for smaller birds, do not buy it for a large one. Safety is one reason for size recommendations.

In summary, a toy should be of appropriate size with no ingestible parts, free of toxins and as free as possible of potential entanglements. Parrots and cockatoos may have roughly the intelligence of a five-year-old child and the emotional development of a two-year old but they have outwitted me time and time again. We must be as vigilant as a devoted mother for her toddler and that vigilance must be maintained for many years. Many parrots and cockatoos live as long or longer than we do. If you think safety when you make or buy toys and keep an eye on them while they are playing, then you have done your best for your feathered children. Besides, watching them with an open heart can bring awe and wonder back into your life. They are amazing.

An Aviary For Your Finches

Often people make the mistake of thinking that finches are very small birds, therefore they will do just fine in very small cages. This couldn't be further from the truth. While most finch birds are rather small, measuring from 4" to 6", they still need room to roam.

Small in stature, these birds are built for hours upon hours of continuous flight. This is one of the reasons they are such active little birds, because they need to make use of all that energy. Because of their natural need for activity, it is imperative that their living area provides them with enough room to reach full flight when moving from perch to perch.

In an ideal world, and outdoor aviary would be the perfect solution to providing your birds with plenty of space to safely roam. Outdoor aviaries can be a bit expensive, but you can cut the cost if you should decide to build the aviary yourself.

There are many books on building your own outdoor aviary, but here is a quick guide on what you will need.

To start you will need the following equipment: wire snips, pliers, a hammer, a miter say, a drill, a heavy-duty staple gun and staples, sandpaper, bendable wire, 100 square feet of small wire mesh screening, slim carpentry screws or fasteners, 12 one-inch by one-inch by four-foot lengths of lumber and 8 one-inch by one-inch by three-foot lengths of lumber.

You will need to sand all the lumber so there are no rough edges or splinters in the wood that might injure you or your birds. Then use the miter saw to square all the corners of the lumber. Assemble 2 four-foot high by four-foot wide frames using your screws or fasteners. Stretch, cut and staple the wire mesh over them. These two frames make up the front and back walls of the aviary.

Assemble 4 four-foot high by three-foot wide frames with your screws then stretch, cut and staple the wire mesh over them like you did earlier. Here you are creating the top, bottom and sides of your aviary.

Screw all six of the screened frames together into a four-foot high by three-foot wide by four-foot long box shape. From the left side of the aviary, cut open three sides of a small door in the wire mesh about 12 inches wide and 12 inches high, bending the screen on the left margin of the door. Cut a descent length of wire to loop in the door to use as a latch.

Now this is just a very basic aviary, there are much more spacious and beautiful models you can build, but this will get you started. If you don't have room for this type of aviary, you can buy smaller, indoor aviaries at bird supply stores and some pet shops.

Which ever you choose, your birds will have plenty of room to fly around and active finches are happy finches.

Keeping Finches Happy Is Easy

If you want to get a pet that is easy to care for, makes very little mess, does not take up much room, and is very easy to keep happy, you want to get a finch. Keeping finches happy is easy to do.

When people get their first pair of these little feathered charmers they are scared that they will do something wrong in their attempt to care for finches. Actually keeping finches is easier than keeping a dog, or a cat.

When you have one of these birds for a pet you provide it with a cage that is at least 30" long. The cage does not need to be really high, as finches fly more sideways than they do up. Inside that cage make certain you have a place for plenty of fresh drinking water, and a food dish. Place a perch, or two inside the cage spaced far enough apart that the birds have to maneuver a little to change from one perch to the other. Do not situate them where they just step off one and step onto the other one.

Go to the store and pick up finch supplies for your new pet. Find out what finches like to eat, and make sure you have some on hand. Then you are ready to pick out your birds. Yes I did say birds, not bird. You see, finches are very social beings and if you only have one the little creature would quickly become depressed, and would not be happy. To ensure that your pet is happy, and healthy, you must provide it with a friend.

You do not necessarily have to have a male and female pair. You do not even have to have both finches be of the same variety. You simply need to give them a friend to hang around with. If you do decide that you want two different varieties of birds to reside in the same cage, make sure that the two you pick have close to the same characteristics. If you get one type that is easygoing, and you get one type that is slightly more dominant. Then the easygoing bird will soon become an unhappy bird. To make sure you have happy pets do a little research on which types of finches can live in harmony in the same cage.

If you do decide you want a male and a female these little fellows are fairly easy to keep satisfied enough that they breed in captivity.

Your new pets are not really keen on being handled, so you will not want to pick them up a lot. Basically if they have food, water, a friend, and a place they can stretch their wings a little, then you will have pets that are content in their surroundings.

All you will need to do is sit back and let them entertain you with the way they interact with each other. You can share little bits of fresh veggies with them every now and then, to give them a special treat.

Top Five Ways for Breeding Finches

Anyone that has finches for pets will eventually consider breeding their birds. The delight you get from your pets makes you want to see your birds have little ones, and watch them grow.

To begin breeding finches you need to get your birds a nest. Some people provide store-bought nests for their pets, some people construct the nests for them, and some people will provide the animals with the materials to build their own nests. Do not be upset if your birds do not like the first nest you give them, this is absolutely normal. Just remove the one they did not like and try another one. Continue to replace them until the birds accept one, and after that you will always know which nest to provide for your breeding finch.

Zebra finch breeders often provide their birds with wicker basket nests that are full of material to encourage their breeders. When these animals breed in the wild they will look for a place where they can hide completely, and this makes them feel safe. If you give them the ability to feel safe this will encourage breeding.

If your pets are not breeding you can try buying a heater from the pet supply, like they place in reptile cages; the heater will make the animals feel better and be healthier. Healthy birds are more likely to breed than sick ones.

You can try providing your animals with plenty of material to put in their nest. Sisal fiber is an excellent choice in materials as the finches breeders who do this on a regular basis will tell you.

One of the best things you can do for your pets is to make their environment as close to the natural environment they would have been in. They need to feel safe and secure, and they need to have what they consider a good food supply. This is not hard to accomplish, you can keep the feeder full for the animals, and plants make them feel like they have places to hide from danger. Buy fake plants for this purpose, or you can try providing them with cover by placing a blanket on the sides of their cage.

If you have children in your home, do not let them bump the cage a lot, or poke their fingers or other objects through the bars. If the birds are frequently disrupted by their cage being jarred around, then they will not feel safe and secure.

When you notice the male fussing with the nest, and then doing their mating song and dance, you should notice an egg in the nest in the next couple of days. The female may not begin to sit on the egg until she has laid 8 eggs. This is called a clutch of eggs, and she can only lay one per day. After they begin to sit on the eggs you will have hatching in 10 to 18 days. The parents will give the young all the care they need.

Breeding Zebra Finches

Zebra Finches are very eager breeders if they are happy and well cared for. These birds will readily breed even in smaller or breeding cages. They display mating behaviors all year-long, but once you notice the male beginning to show signs of gathering behavior, your birds are ready to breed.

The breeding cage should be at least one square foot per bird. They should be provided with two nest boxes per pair of birds, that are mounted as high as possible opposite the food dish and separated from any other nest boxes if breeding more than one pair per cage. They should be provide with nesting materials like coconut fibers, soft bits of string and leaves. They will pack their nest with everything they can reach for about a week before the female begins laying eggs.

Zebra Finch clutches can be anywhere from 3 to 12 eggs at time. It will take the female a few days to lay all the eggs. Nests should be left alone after the egg laying begins and until the young begin to venture out alone. Be aware that it isn't uncommon to have a couple of eggs not hatch. Good eggs will hatch within two weeks of laying and the fledglings will begin to venture out in about three to four weeks of hatching. Expect the nest to be very busy as the eggs hatch. Zebra Finches are very good parents and will take turns sitting on the nest and feeding the young.

The breeding pair must be at least 9 months old and they can be bred as a single pair or with more breeding pairs. Be sure you have an even amount of males and females or else fights for dominance and breeding partners can break out. Proper nutrition including cuttlebone for calcium is important for the health of the breeding pair as well as the health of the clutch. 

The calcium from cuttlebone helps to prevent egg binding in the females. You will need to provide fresh sprouts every day along with soft foods such as mashed hard-boiled egg, bread soaked in milk or grated vegetables. Banding for identification should be done on day 12. The young begin leaving the nest at about 4 weeks after hatching and will be independent in 5 to 6 weeks.

In the wild Zebra Finches can live up to 5 years, in captivity they normally live from 8-10 years. If they are well cared for and are kept happy and healthy, they can live up to 12 years.

How Do You Build a Chicken Coop - 5 Essential Guidelines You MUST Know

1. The coops basic structure

Your chicken coop is essentially going to have two main parts. The first is the enclosed indoor shelter or henhouse. This is a place that should shelter your flock from bad weather and enclose them for the night. It will give protection from predators when they are asleep and most vulnerable. The henhouse should be big enough to provide 2 to 4 sq.ft. of space per bird.

The second part is the outdoor area or run. Think of the run as their place to hang out; to eat, drink, bath, exercise and socialize with friends.If enclosed, you should provide 10 sq. ft. of space per chicken. If you birds are kept confined most of the time, allocate as much space as you can for your birds. They will be happier and healthier. It's better to build a coop that is too big rather than one that's too small.

2. Predator-proof Fence

The entire coop structure - the henhouse and run - must be enclosed to keep your chickens in and predators out. Fencing should be no less than 4 to 6 feet high (1.2 to 1.8m) to contain your chickens. Do not use lightweight 1 inch mesh wire for fencing. Flimsy materials like that is no deterrent to predators.

Fencing should be made of medium to heavy-duty materials intended for outdoor use. Livestock fencing or poultry netting are good examples. There are some light breeds which can fly over 6 foot barriers. Keep them in by installing poultry netting over the enclosure.This also protects your flock from aerial predators like hawks or owls and other predators that can climb up and over the fence.

Be sure to bury the fence 6 to 12 inches below ground. This prevents predators from tunneling under the fence. Holes in the wire should be no larger than 1 inch. This prevents your chickens from sticking their heads out and chicks from easily slip through.

The next two features are inside the coop. They are essential if you are raising chickens for eggs, will let your hens hatch their eggs or raise chickens as pets. If you raise meat chickens or broiler these two features are not necessary.

3. Nesting Boxes

This is the spot where the hens come to lay their eggs and where you will find and gather them. You should have 1 nesting box for every 2 to 4 hens. The individual size of the nest box can range from 12x12x12 for average size hens to 16x16x16 for heavy breed hens. The nest box has to be bigger than a hen, allow headroom, and space to turn around. There should also be a "lip" in front of the boxes to prevent eggs from rolling out. They should also be covered in straw to protect the eggs.

Elevate the laying boxes off the ground to discourage chickens from scratching in them which could dirty or break eggs. Some folks create easy access to gather the eggs without disturbing the hens. Make the nest boxes along an outside wall so with a hatch to easily gather the eggs from outside the coop.

4. Roosts

Chickens like to sleep up high of the ground. They feel safer. The roost height depending on the age and health of your chickens as well as the height of your coop. You'll want the lowest roosts to be anywhere from 18 to 24 inches above the floor. Space them 18 inches apart. It is not recommended to have lots of roosts at different heights. Chickens like to perch as high as possible. This creates competition among the chickens for the highest spot.

Allow 8 inches (20 cm) of perching space for each chicken - 10 inches for the larger breeds.

Also, you want the roosts to be wide enough so the chickens can place their feet comfortably on them. Regular sized chickens require perches 2 inches across with rounded edges. No less than 1 inch across for bantams. The flat sides of 2x4s are very popular roosts.

5. Feeder & Waterer

There are variety of specially designed poultry feeders and waterers commercially available. Choose feeders and waterers that give your flock easy access while also discouraging mess and waste contamination. This prevents your birds from filling them with their poops and debris. It's also easy for you to both fill and clean them. Position the bottom of the feeder and top edge of the chicken waterers at the top height of your chicken's back.

These are the five main ingredients in your chicken coop. What you use for the coop, how you lay it all out and what materials you use it is really up to you. Like I said, you can go from buying one already assembled to just using some proven plans to... Going Wild.....

The Colorful Gouldian Finch

Talk about a beautiful rainbow! Gouldian Finches are one of the most vibrantly colored birds around. The Gouldian Finch, also known as The Lady Gouldian Finch or Rainbow Finch, is a colorful passerine bird endemic to Australia. They are found in northern Australia, their habitat being tropical savanna woodlands. Unfortunately this beautiful bird's population is declining in the wild and in 1992 they were officially classified as "Endangered in the wild".

Gouldian Finches can get up to 6 inches long, with the males being a little larger than the females. Both males and females are brightly colored with yellow, red, green and black markings. The males are more brightly colored than the females, especially in the breast area. In general males have deep purple breasts, yellow bellies, and green bodies with black, red or yellow heads. Juveniles have a different coloring; their heads and necks are grey while their backs, wings and tail feathers are an olive-green. 

Their undersides, legs and feet are a light brown. Due to breeding in captivity, there have been a wide variety of color mutations developed including the white breasted, yellow-headed, blue breasted, blue bodied, white bodied and rose breasted variations.

Gouldian Finches do very well when housed with Zebra or Society Finches. They are very social and active so they must have plenty of flight room. These birds are not hard to keep, however they can be quite difficult to acclimate to their new surroundings. They need plenty of exercise to avoid metabolic problems that can be life threatening. They can become ill if exposed to cold, even for short periods of time.

These birds are NOT the ideal finch to try to finger or shoulder train. These birds are happiest when enjoyed from a distance. They should always be bought in pairs. While not extremely difficult birds to keep, Gouldian Finches really should be purchased by experienced bird keepers.

Breeding comes naturally if the birds are kept happy and healthy by providing them with proper nutrition, a clean environment, mental stimulations (toys), social activity and plenty of exercise.

Due to their beauty and incredible color and pattern variations, these birds can be quite expensive. Since these birds are a bit more delicate than other finches, it is imperative that you purchase your birds from a breeder than you can go to with any question regarding the care of your birds and that you have an avian vet you can speak to and have exam your birds regularly.

Zebra Finches - Breeding and Raising Finches

If you are thinking about breeding finches, then breeding Zebra Finches is a slam dunk. These little birds are breeding machines. They will produce young birds at an amazing rate and they aren't particularly fussy about where they do it. Almost any enclosure will do as long as you provide an appropriate nesting site for them to lay eggs, incubate them and nurture them until they become independent.

The absolute minimum size cage for your Zebra Finches to successfully mate is a standard flight cage that measures at least three feet in length, that's a bit shy of one meter. If you provide a nesting box, I use semi-open baskets available at any pet shop selling birds, mainly because they are inexpensive, easy to clean and my birds seem to not object. I place the nest high and near a corner however as long as the nest is placed high in the cage, no worries, your finches will find the nest and produce baby birds rapidly.

I supply coconut fibers and, when available, a bit of soft grass for the mating pair to line the inside of the nesting box. Rarely will your finches build a nest on the floor of the cage as they might do in the wild; while they may lay eggs on the floor of the cage, these eggs are unlikely to produce young birds.

Once the eggs are laid, generally four to five eggs at a time, the parent birds take turns incubating them. They will hatch in a range of twelve to fourteen days after being laid. During incubation and for the next few weeks, your finches must be fed a diet that includes seeds and is heavily supplemented with insect protein; mealworms do just fine for the insect protein and are available at most pet stores in a live but dormant form from the refrigerator. The parents share the feeding responsibility for the young birds.

As the young birds near independence but have not left the nest, the parents sometimes begin to neglect the young birds and resume their courtship behaviors. If this happens, remove the nest from the cage and hand feed the young birds until they reach independence. Crushing seeds and mealworms and adding a tiny bit of liquid will work just fine as you feed the little ones with an eye-dropper.

The young Zebra Finches mature quickly and may attempt to mate as early as eleven weeks old. It is better, however, to separate them by gender until they are at least nine months old because early mating will produce lethargic young birds.

Finches Make the Best Pets

For anyone who is looking to get a pet that is low maintenance, highly entertaining, and extremely forgiving, finches make the best pets.

The finches are small and easily kept in cages. The little birds come in a wide variety of colors and patterns. Finches, birds are found in almost all pet stores, so they are easy to purchase. And because they are so common you can buy them in almost any price range.

Having finches as pets makes good sense for anyone who works odd hours, or who travels frequently for work. You simply place enough feed and water in the cages for the amount of time you will be gone, and when you come home your pet will be as happy as when you left. When you get back the cage will need some cleaning, but it will be the pets cage that needs cleaned not your rug. Other pets might have accidents on your carpets, tear up your furniture, eat your shoes, or even chew on your telephone and electric cords, but finches will remain in their cage, and be content.

If you have a dog for a pet when you return home from being away, the animal will often pout, and sulk. They will be mad at you for leaving them. If you have a lot of work to do they will demand your attention, even if they have to destroy something to get it. You have to interrupt anything you are doing and take them for walks, or let them outside. You must treat them for fleas and ticks, or they will cause an infestation of your home with these parasites. If all of that sounds like it could be more than you are ready to handle, you should look into finches for pets.

The little bird will never pout because you left, or you did not pet them, and they never need taking outdoors. These creatures really do not like you to handle them very much. They are happy in their little caged world that you provide, as long as you remember to feed, and water them, that is all they need from you.

Try and remember if you want to keep one of these birds as a pet, you will need two birds at least. They are very social with their own species, and are miserable when they are alone. Providing them with a companion will make all the difference in your little feathered friend.

You can, and will be very entertained by watching the antics of these small creatures. They each have their own personalities, and the different species of them have tendencies toward different characteristics of behavior. Some of these animals can sing beautifully, while some never sing.

You will find some species to be aggressive, while others are almost timid. Some of the birds are simply curious, they get along with others unless the others are nesting, and then the curious birds will not leave the parents to be alone.

You will have to explore the different species to find the perfect one for your home.

How to Buy Finches That Are Healthy and Happy

If you are new to the world of raising finches, then you may want a little advice on how to buy finches that are healthy and happy. Birds can be very difficult to judge when they are sick. Nature has taught them to mask any signs of weakness in order to not alert predators. So for you to be able to tell if the finch you are looking at is a healthy bird you will have to be observant.

If at all possible go purchase your bird from a breeder rather going to a pet store. Pet stores are great places for getting supplies for your feathered friends but they do not always know any real information regarding the finches for sale in their shop. They will know the basics of what foods to give them, but they will more than likely have no clue about the behavior of the species you are looking at. When you want to buy finches try to find a reputable breeder in your area.

The breeder is going to be able to tell you all the characteristics of the types of birds they raise. They usually do not have a finch sale until the birds are ready to leave, and most breeders would never allow a finches sale when the bird appeared sick.

Spend a little time at the breeders looking at the birds. Notice their cages, are they cleaned, and neat looking? Do the birds have plenty of fresh water inside their cage? Is there a ready supply of food for the birds to eat? Does the cage look small or cramped for the number of birds that are in it?

Try if you can to see more than just the few birds that are up for sale. If you can see where they house their breeding stock you will get to see exactly how healthy acting their other birds are.

The birds should appear neat and clean, but do not fret too much if you notice some missing feathers, the loss of some feathers can be considered normal. Look at the birds beak to see if it is shaped correctly, and notice the nostrils at the top of the beak. If there is any sign of the nostrils having a runny appearance you do not want that bird.

If the bird is just sitting listlessly, pass that one up as well. These little creatures are very social with each other and they are very active.

Not all the species of finches are singers so you cannot really judge anything by whether or not they are singing. A good rule of thumb to remember is the more brightly colored the bird is, the less likely it is to sing. If you want a song bird you will want a plain Jane variety.

You can look in your local classifieds and find advertisements for finches for sale, some of these will be very reasonable dealers with healthy, happy specimens.